Day 2 - Daibutsu (Kamakura)

1st February, 2003 - Kamakura is famous for it's Daibutsu or Great Buddha. This Buddha was cast from bronze in 1252 AD and is approximately 13.35m high and weighs 93 tonnes. It's original worship hall was destroyed by tsunami around 1495. For 20 yen, you can enter the statue, though it's a tight fit, and an unnerving feeling being encased entirely in a giant sacophogus of metal. This is definitely one of the sights that you must visit when coming to Kamakura.

Walking in the shoes of the Buddha. This is one of the examples of strange things that passes as hobbies in Japan... ok, so it's not really a hobby, but a sign of devotion. Followers (school kids actually) wove together these giant-szed sandles for the Great Buddha to use (should he suddenly animate and want to go for a walk). After 800 years, I suspect the first place he'll go is look for a Giant-sized Toilet!

If you're looking for it, it's just west of the Kamakura station... an easy walk away.

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Day 2 - Zeniarai Benten Shrine (Kamakura)

1st February, 2003 - There are a number of unusual shrines in Kamakura, one such is Zeniari Benten shrine... which was established around 1185 AD. It's approached through a rock cave through to a gorge, at the rear of which is another cave with a water pool. The entrance is guarded by a number of plain torii gates (they are donated by people that have received good luck from worshipong here, or those aspiring to). There is also a large number of ema boards placed around the shrine, on which believers write their wishes for the local God (kami) to respond to.

This shrine is famous for coin-washing - as a means of wishing good luck to get wealthy. Indeed, zeni means coin, and arai means washing.That tradition has extended to note-washing, where peole wash their cash notes in the rock pool, and dry them off over giant incense burners. Though small, this is one of the most popular shrines in Kamakura, but easily missed by foreigners.

Day 2 - Minamoto no Yoritomo (Kamakura)

1st February, 2003 - Walking in the hills surrounding Kamakura, you can find the odd reminder of this town's history. One such memorial is this statue to Minamoto no Yoritomo.

Day 2 - Tsuragaoka Hachiman-gu (Kamakura)

1st February 2003 -Arrived at Kamakura. Once you get off the train, you're almost immediately assailed by the local tourist-seeking rickshaw operators. We were holiday-happy enough to say yes to "Eiji" the very talkative guy who promised he'd show us all the old residences in Kamakura. He did too - if by that you took it to mean showing us all the out of the way places.

Actually, we had fun, and ended up on the main road towards Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu (the main temple in Kamakura). On the approach is an arched bridge which was said to only be for the Shogun's use (and it's easy to see why, as it's now blocked off from pedestrian traffic).









Tsuragaoka Hachiman-gu
This shinto shrine was established by the Minamoto clan, and contains many of the aspects that you will find across Japan for these shrines. Firstly there is the wash basin (chozuya) which are used to purify yourself with water prior to approaching the shrine. Ladels are used to rinse off your hands - and no, it's not for drinking. On approaching the main worshipping hall which is generally known as the haiden (not where the God is meant to reside - the honden - that's not accessible to the public), you will find an alter of such, generally with a coin tray (saisen-bako) infront. Make a coin offering (it can be whatever value you wish), ring the bell twice (or strike gong), bow twice and then clap twice and then pray to the God (Kami); finish up by bowing once again. It's like pressing send on a celestial email. Each shrine may be slightly different, and there is also meaning to how the clapping is done, and the depth of the bows. Too much information!

There are also (like most of shrines) places where you can buy an assortment of charms and prayers (including ema, which are used to write your prayers on - more of that later). You can also see sacred ropes, or shimenawa, that establish a boundary to the sacred parts of the temple. Other features associated with Shinto shrines include the bright red torii gates, and the pair of stone lions, komainu.

A Shinto rite is performed...

A nearby lake and bridge.

Day 2 - Kamakura

Kamakura

History: Kamakura was established in 1185 AD as the effective capital of Japan following the civil war that effectively ended the height of Japanese refinement, the Heien Period, and began a slow rise of the warrior-lord. This revolution was started in the mid-1150's and centred around Taira Kiyomori who (with his clan) defeated the rival Minamoto clan for control of the Emperor's power. The Minamoto clan through Yoshitomo Minamoto subsequently defeated the Taira and set about strengthening their power base in the west (Kanto region) in Kamakura. Yoshitomo was given the title of Shogun in 1192, but his family was quickly came to be controlled by the Hojo family. This militaristic regime was known as the bakafu (or tent government) and lasted until about 1333 AD, when it was eventually overcome by Emperor Go-Daigo after which control returned (momentarily) to Kyoto.

Getting There: A train service departs Shinjuku or Shinagawa stations (JR Yokusoka Line). Tourist information can be found here (http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2166.html).