LeTao - One of Many Sweet-Spots of Sapporo

6th July, 2010 - Hokkaido's famous in Japan for it's delicious foods, and one the shops that's starting to build up a good reputation is LeTao (which originally started in Otaru, a small tourist town just to the north-west of Sapporo). Actually - LeTao make a wide range of sweets, all of which are delectable.

I know Japanese sweets aren't for everyone, but for me the combination of beautiful appearance and dialled-down-sweetness is great. Now I can't say much about these goodies as it's hard to enjoy food vicariously except through enjoying the imagined taste. They make for excellent omiyage (or presents given typically of souvenirs from travel), and indeed there's a roaring trade within Sapporo for nicely packaged sweets etc. If only I could bring back a container load for here in Adelaide as I think our cake shops could learn a few things from Japan.

Otaru....Sapporo's (Double) Date Spot

11th April, 2009 - Now Otaru is a short drive from our house, and it also happens to be one of the major "touristy" places in and around Sapporo... so we've been here many times before (like here and here). So I've  written about Otaru a lot... but that shouldn't stop me writing again... should it? Now... a reminder of where Otaru is... if you catch the JR Hokkaido line it will cost you around 620yen and take about 30 mintues from Sapporo Station.

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So here we are again in Marchen Square (don't ask me why it's called that)... this is the centre of activities but  it actually lies to one end of the main shopping street, Sakai-machi. The reason we were here... a double date - but more of that later.

The Otaru Orgel Doh stands in the background

One of must-see places is the Otaru Orgel Doh, which is a magical place that just sells Orgels, or music boxes of all (and I mean ALL) shapes and sizes from the very small to the HUGE (and very expensive). Now, if you're like me, you most probably not a big time fan of music boxes - I mean, lets face it, who other than pre-teen girls have music boxes?

Well... apparently a lot of people. And the variety that you can see here (and this is just a small fraction of the shop) indicates a life-long job that for serious collectors. The great thing about the shop is that even if you're not into music boxes, you can still enjoy the amazing sensory assault delight that is the Orgel Doh. 

Actually - no camera's allowed... but...

And - yet another plug for LeTAO le Chocolat cafeteria, also in Marchen Square. Don't forget to grab a free sample on the way past.

The good thing about a lot of Japanese places for the foreign tourist is that the sporadic use of English makes it slightly easier to guess what's going on. Actually, this cafe was one that we had enjoyed on our first trip and is worth a look inside (at least it was). It's a little bit touristy, but for Otaru that's par for the course. Grab a coffee and relax after looking at all of those music boxes.... it's just across from the Otaru Orgel Doh.

Well, the main reason we were in Otaru was because older T-chan's brother (H-kun) had come back to Sapporo with his girlfriend... and soon to be fiance (S-chan). Now, we're actually going to go over to Japan in the next few months to  attend their wedding in Tokyo, and a little closer to the day, we might do a bit of a story on H-kun... but for now, let's leave the two lovebirds alone... And Otaru is a good place for lovebirds to spend time alone in. Especially for a daburu dēto... a double date. Ooooh - how exciting.

Speaking of lovebirds... here's a nice family shot of just me, T-chan (mystery woman as usual) and our lovely son...er... T-chan, did we leave L-kun back at the Ampanman shop by any chance?....

Actually, the building style is quite different in Otaru, heavily influenced as it was from early European influence - and there remains a strong presence of especially Russians in and around Otaru. I've never been to Otaru in the middle of a snowy winter, so I can't really say what it would be like. I know a lot of people have complained about how cold it can get, but I suspect that's pretty well anywhere in/around Sapporo outside the underground shopping during a snow storm. However, during Spring / Summer / Autumn it's a beautiful day trip from Sapporo.

There are also a lot of very nice cafe's in Otaru (as well as the overly touristy ones)... here's a nice little cafe that H-kun introduced us to, called Uminekoya.

This is a reasonable walk from the "tourist strip", and this cafe/restaurant is reasonably popular in Otaru. Especially for the exquisite and atmospheric buidling.

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Their meals are fairly Italian in style - and I had a very hearty stew. Whilst stews are not the first thing I think of when I think Italian, it's not really what you would think of when you say stew. Very yummy - and as the day was actually quite cool still, it was a nice warm-you-to-the-bones meal. They do all sorts of curries, but principally they do Pizzas, Pastas, meat dishes, salads... and if you're interested, check out the menu (and yes they also do "couple plans" for that romantic lunch/dinner). Our experience was that it was a nice place to sit down and relax. Personally, it's atmospheric, but for me not that romatic (this is a little too country rustic for a date, and the service isn't particularly brilliant). Still a good place to go and enjoy a different experience.

Well - the day was spent, like most days to Otaru, enjoy the canals, enjoying looking at music boxes, Ghibli-esque toy store called Yume no Oto, visit the many sea-food places (Otaru has some of the best fish-cakes you can buy) , and of course glass shops...and more glass shops. There's definitely a lot of walking to be done. Sometimes you just need a good sit down and relax... you never know who you might meet. Hmmm - it makes me wonder, where do statues and sculptures go for their holidays?

And there's always a great drive back (if you have a car) to Sapporo, there's always the nice (if a little dark) views across Ishikari Bay, and the still snow capped peaks along the coast. So overall, it was a very nice place for a double date, and we'll most probably see a little more of H-kun and S-chan over the next few trips I suspect - and Imight even formally introduce you guys on the blog (properly)... ?;-)

Going to Otaru... Two

18th October, 2006 - Well T-chan has definitely been feeling worse in the mornings now - and still no sign of her  taste returning. We decided to borrow the parents car and head off across to Otaru to spend some more time together. On the way we planned to visit <a href=" />Asari Dam again. The "UFO Bridge" looks quite different during the day, and I have to say that it's even more freaky to drive over when you can see what you're doing! Did I mention my growing fear of heights?

Deep waters run still. However, deeper waters also tend to overflow... not sure why the engineers hadn't quite worked out where the water level was going to get to when they build the fence. Still... keeps the fishes in. This is a hard thing to watch all of this water... just sitting there.... considering that Australia and Adelaide was (and still is) in the grip of a drought.

This is generally a good place for Autumn Colours, however, this year was definitely a disappointment. There was very little colour around, especially when I recall Jozankei and how absolutely impressed I was.

It's still a nice area, but it's a bit cool for a picnic.

We left Asari Dam and continued on to Otaru (here's a link to a useful map of the Otaru). It had been three years since we last came during the Autumn months, and it had be beautiful back then. Once again the weather was beautiful for strolling around... but the chill air had started to appear lately. These sorts of days were coming to an end with the approach of winter in Hokkaido. Otaru is separated into two main tourist areas. The canal and the Sakai-machi street where you will find most of the glass and music box shops.

The following shows just some of the scenes along Sakai-machi street. The big building here is the Kitaichi Venetian Museum of Art. Why in Otaru? I think it's the link to the glass/crystal industry. Venetian glass being the yardstick by which others are measured.

School kids on excursion. This is a typical "real school uniform" look... very smart. Not exactly sure what they'd be doing here today - T-chan says they'd be part of a school trip from somewhere else in Japan (2nd year High School students invariably go for a trip either to another part of Japan or even overseas). You'll notice that there's not that much bling on these girls. When T-chan went to school (a few years ago now)... their dresses were measured to ensure that they were "appropriate length", and hair dying was definitely prohibited. T-chan and her mother had to convince that her hair was naturally curled (actually it was permed... shhhh... family secret). Generally things have loosened up a lot in Japan these days - even in the private schools.

Near the end of street there is a large public square, known as Marchen Square.

LeTAO le Chocolat cafeteria in Marchen Square... you'll often find someone outside offering free samples of their wares... yummy.

Otaru Orgel Doh (often translated to Emporium)... Orgel or music boxes are one of the famous things in Otaru. Here you'll find just about any type of music box from the modern and small to the enormous and old (and with prices to match). Sorry - no photos inside on this trip...

Out the front of the Orgel Emporium is the Steam Clock... yes - a steam powered clock. It's supposedly the largest in the world, and only the second to be built. Actually, whilst this appears old, it was made in 1995 by Raymond Saunders. Steam clocks are a generally recent thing, the first popular one was actually made in Gastown, Vancouver in 1977. Every 15 minutes the chimes ring out...

Whislt your here - if you've got any anime interest at all, make sure you stop in at Yume no Oto (The Sound of Dreams). There's a great range of Studio Ghibli gear, as well as a raft of other anime-themed gear.

(care of Street View)

Good ol' Totoro! And if you don't know about Studio Ghibli then you should go out and hire one of their movies - especially anything by renowned director Hayao Miyazaki.

Bears are never far away... at least this one is not stuffed! He also looks much more friendly (on account of not being stuffed I'm sure).

The architecture in Otaru is quite eclectic. Theres the more traditional old Japanese building...

And the stranger fusion styles as well.

Nothing says old like living walls...

Not exactly the golden arches of McDonalds... not sure it will catch on.

Or if you want a treat - you can always go low-brow and get a Frankfurt-on-a-stick . Not quite a hot dog, but yummy nonetheless. And yes... they're called Furankufuruto! T-chan was looking forward to reliving childhood memories of eating these... but not sure they're that appetizing when you can't taste.

Otaru is famous for it's hills. And it's snow. Generally this is not a convenient combination. Outside of winter you get to see how they keep it all together. Doesn't look that sturdy - but works a charm.

And here's the obligatory canal shot. Not much has changed in 3 years.

Our fourth trip to Sapporo is winding up... and today was just a test-run for our hectic adventure in Kyoto. It's been a good day -  but we know it's going to be hard trip.

Off to Otaru for a Spot of Romance

 27th October, 2003 - Today we're off to Otaru.... the place to go from Sapporo. You can get to Otaru by either train (catch the JR train which runs on the half hour, and costs about 620 yen) or by road (either the toll-free road or the tolled Sasson Expressway which will cost about 1200 yen). 
Today T-chan and I are driving her Sera... 


Otaru has a strange relationship with Sapporo... it's about 37 km (~40 min) drive away (with the inevitable tunnels), and is often seen as the "romantic destination" for couples in Sapporo...

...but it's also where some of the outlets can be found (and hence cheap shopping), and as such it's a bit of a strange blend of attractions... but as such, there's something in Otaru for everyone.

Today we're at a small restaurant (called Fisherman's Harbour) that sits on the western edge of the Otaru harbour (Ishikari Bay)

The view over the water is nice... but then again, it's not exactly Sydney Harbour either.  Actually this goes to the whole feel of Otaru. Otaru started off as a trading port and fishing port. A job that it still enjoys... even though it no longer has the role of being a major import/export hub. That's gone to places like Ishikari and Tomakomai... we'll discuss Tomakomai more a little later on.

Otaru is semi-industrial, semi-commercial, and semi-historical. And it's very very hilly.... indeed one of the mountains looming over Otaru is called Tengu-yama (a tengu is a mischievous mythical creature in Japan with a red face, and a very long nose...)

Otaru is still famous for it's canals - or should I say canal as there really is only the one preserved canal remaining. It is however very picturesque, and almost impossible not to photograph.

That has a distinctive old world charm.... just ignore the apartment buildings crowding in from across the canal... Actually Otaru is one of those places that looks attractive no matter what season.

There's a lot of shops in Otaru... to be honest, most of the popular ones are related to the glass industry (for which Otaru is famous within Japan) and music boxes of all things. We went to a lot of these very attractive shops (yet no photos - sorry - you will need to wait to later trips to see them). Yet there are others shops to browse in, even if they are a little less distinctive... hmmm who's that over there...?

Astro Boy (or Tetsuwan Atomu in Japan) welcomes weary travellers over to the shop. The other two are just content to sit back and (rather creepily) take it all in.

This shop for example had a lot of collector memorabilia from 60-70's USA.... as well as your typical touristy knick-knacks. T-chan and I enjoyed our time browsing around here. Actually there's a lot of variety in Otaru, and you can spend a long time just wandering around. Unfortunately I think this shop's been converted into parking... *sigh* that's progress for you.

There is a strange fusion of old and...hmmm... how to say it... bad taste(?) in Otaru. Was that a bad pun?

Next time I might talk about the glass industry and the sorts of things you can buy here.

Yet the heart of Otaru is still strong with it's victorian character infused with a good dashing capitalist zeal. It's definitely a nice day-trip from Sapporo - and one that we've done on a few occasions now. And yes, it's a nice romantic place to visit. Don't have too high expectations, and you won't be disappointed. Actually, Otaru was featured (sort of) in a famous Japanese movie, Love Letter. Thoroughly recommend it!

As a an aside, on the way back from Otaru - if you're driving... I'd definitely recommend making a detour to visit Asari Dam. Not least of all for the really funky "UFO bridge" by which you climb to get to the dam wall itself. The photo here doesn't do it justice, as it circles around and around, and you feel precariously spinning higher and higher. Not good for the faint hearted... but worth while to get to the top. We came here at night, so the views were less than spectacular, but this is also a great place to see the autumn colours.

Just turn inland along the Asari Onsen Dori... which (as the name of the road suggests) also takes you to the local onsen as well. Truly, the roadworks in Japan are fantastic in scale... ok, they may not be up to the US super-highways, but they're a work of art and efficiency. Er... how far are we from Tengu-yama?... there's an eeriness about this place... and T-chan swears that she's met a Tengu back when she was twenty years old. I am happy for them to remain mythical please. Let's go!

It was a big day, and T-chan took the chance to catch up on some Z's. Actually, we had decided not to bring T-chan's Sera back to Australia; rather T-chan decided to sell it to her friend's (T2-chan) brother. This is a good deal for all as he gets a cheap car, we avoid having to pay for the scrapping of the car. This is a hard decision for T-chan however....    lots of tears. T-chan loved that car.

She's dreaming of her Sera...