Day 6 - Tokugawa (Yanaka) Cemetary (Ueno)

5th February, 2003 - The last day of the first chapter of our Japan trip. We decided to return to Ueno and catch some culture at the National Museum... but first we thought we'd try something different. Beyond Tosho-gu, there lies the Yanaka Cemetary (although this is often referred to as the Tokugawa Cemetary, after the family that ruled Japan for about two and a half centuries - and who have a dedicated section). It's a strange attraction that takes a pair of tourists like us to see a cemetary... and in hindsight, I would not recommend it (even though a short walk from the National Museum).


It is a moody place, and where you will find the good bits hidden away from view. Like the burial place of Ieysasu himself, the attraction has gone - in his case, to Nikko - leaving only a cold reminder of where we all end up (tourist or tyrant).

Day 5 - Shitamachi Museum (Ueno)

4th February, 2003 - Around Ueno you can also visit the Shitamachi Museum, which is sort of an indoors look at an old slice of Tokyo. There's an attempt to recreate a section of old Tokyo... but it never really convinces you that you're anywhere other than an antiques collection. No real life here, and all the displays are statics. There's lots of displays however and recreated rooms, and you might find it sort of interesting - but if you're on a tight budget, in my opinion it's one of those sorts of attractions that can be given the flick. Also - from memory (now 7 years ago), it catered mostly for Japanese tourists, so I didn't find a great deal of English information there. Luckily, having T-chan (my wife's blog-name) there to translate was a big bonus!

They are very proud of their collection of old Japanese toys - mostly of the wooden variety... you know cup and ball, or worse yet - those damnable puzzles. The guide their had a great laugh at the poor gaijin who didn't know how to solve the puzzles... and went to excruciating pains to solve them for me - with the unmistakable air of someone that suspects the world's 20th century dominance by the West was just a terrible, terrible oversight. Having said that... I'm sure he had the same smug attitude to all the visitors (foreign or Japanese alike) - he was just very very proud of his puzzles.

Day 3 - Tosho-gu (Ueno)

2nd February, 2003 - Walking from Benten-do, you can readily arrive at the Tosho-gu shrine. The shrine where Tokugawa Ieyasu (the first unifier of Japan) is enshrined under the gods name Tōshō Daigongen. Actually there are a few of these around (apparently a man or Ieyasu's importance couldn't have enough shrines built after him).

Actually, many of these shrines have peculiar practices - and Ueno's Tosho-gu is no exception. There is a belief here that a certain ritual will help elicit the good-will (of Ieyasu?)... by buying a little thing of string and basically walking backwards and forwards, bending the string over and over again. One hundred times. Hmmm - not on our time budget we don't! Ieyasu god or not.

Ofcourse - when in Ueno-Koen, you should always pop in and have a chat with good ol' Saigo Takamori (1828-77 AD) who was one the most influential Samurai that was a key (if unlikely) architect and actor in the Meiji Restoration that saw the overthrow of the Tokugawa shogunate and the re-emergence of the power of the Imperial Throne. Not sure why walking his dog has taken on so much importance here - I guess he really loved that dog (and no - don't mistake this for Hachiko... another famous Tokyo dog).

Day 3 - Ueno Koen (Ueno)

2nd February, 2003 - We decided to embark fairly early for a walk around Ueno-koen (Ueno Park). It's a strange place - not what I'd call immediately picturesque, but especially with the dried brown stalks covering the lake. A strange mix of architecture too - with the modern (or is that modernly stupid) juxtaposed with the ancient. Actually, Ueno-koen is one of the most popular places for both visitors and Tokyo-ites alike. There's lots to do here including museums, shrines, zoos, Cherry blossom viewing (when in season).

Within the lake lies Benten-do Temple Hall, a worshipping place for Benzaiten... the Japanese name for the Buddhist god Saraswati. She is also sometimes referred to as Benten (huh?... how many names does one god need?). The goddess of all things that flow (most notably water). A very good reason to have her worship hall all the way out in the middle of the lake (Shinobazo pond).

Actually, Benten-do was the first real experience that told me that I was in Japan. Approaching the temple I was excited - this was going to be my very first REAL JAPANESE TEMPLE in Tokyo. I was excited to see inside. Only to be brought up short by an irate priest who, distressed at the typical foreigners (gaijin - or gaigoku-jin to be precise) bad manners. I had forgotten to remove my shoes, and my then-girlfriend had been too slow to warn me.

Here's a lesson - when approaching any threshold where there is a change of environment (inside or outside), look carefully if you are moving into a raised area. Often this is the signal that you are entering an "inner place" (my words) where shoes should be removed. Especially in a temple, this was bad karma! Gomen nasai! (sorry!)