Kyoto Travel Books

I had mentioned somewhere earlier on that I was going to include some references to books that I used before (and after) my travels to plan the trip to Kyoto. And here they are. They certainly aren't an exhaustive list of books for Kyoto, but they're not a bad start. I've sourced all of the book details from Amazon... but haven't included costs etc.

Kyoto A Cultural History

John Dougill

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This is an excellent book that gives a great background to the history of the city - and with, much of the rest of Japan through the ages. It's largely text, with a few hand-drawn images. As a scene-setter, it's very readable and enjoyable... however, it's structure is that of different slices or perspectives of Kyoto life... roughly equating to the different epochs of the Japanese history. As such, it's chronological structure makes it hard to relate to the sites around Kyoto without knowing a fair bit about the history of the city. Still, recommended for a general overview.

Hardcover: 272 pages

• Publisher: Oxford University Press, USA; 1st edition (February 23, 2006)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 0195301374
• ISBN-13: 978-0195301373

Kyoto A Cultural Guide (Revised Edition)

John H. and Phyllis G. Martin

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This is a somewhat strange book - once again, largely text-based with a few crude maps interspersed. There's a fair bit of detail on each of the sites... but more importantly the structure is that of a series of set tours. This is great for stringing together a number of different day trips if you have the time... and there's a fair bit of detail here to keep you interested... with plenty of history thrown in to describe each of the locations. Would have been perfect if it had been a little more graphical in nature... or if they had provided maps of the sites themselves. Great for planning a large trip.

Paperback: 352 pages

• Publisher: Tuttle Pub; Revised edition (June 2002)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 0804833419
• ISBN-13: 978-0804833417

Seeing Kyoto

Juliet Winter's Carpenter

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This is one of the quintessential tourist books that deals with Kyoto and fits within a series alongside Seeing Japan, and Seeing Tokyo. It's a great book to get enthused about Kyoto, but lacks detail to get a real picture of the city (and can't really be used as a way to structure a tour). Having said that it's most popular due to the large, beautiful photos... but then again... there are plenty of beautiful photos of Kyoto on Flickr these days.

Hardcover: 96 pages

• Publisher: Kodansha International (November 15, 2005)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 4770023383
• ISBN-13: 978-4770023384

The Temples of Kyoto

Donald Ritchie and Alexandre Georges

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This is perhaps the most unusual of the books... as it deals specifically (as the title suggests) with the temples of Kyoto... which, let's face it.... are 90% of the tourist sites. There's a fair range of temples included, and they go into a good level of detail for each. The photos are nice, but have a slightly dated feel these days. Still a good read if you're into temple viewing. Plenty of history to keep you culturally aware... interestingly however, there's not that much background on the Buddhist beliefs or traditions - but focus is squarely on the buildings and the history.

Hardcover: 152 pages

Publisher: Tuttle Publishing (October 15, 1995)

Language: English

ISBN-10: 0804820325

ISBN-13: 978-0804820325

Kyoto - City Guide (Lonely Planet)

Chris Rowthorn

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If you're planning a trip to Kyoto, then this is a fantastic resource. It's very small (almost pocketable), and yet covers a wide range of areas in and around Kyoto (as well as nearby  locales such as Osaka, Nara and Himeji). Thoroughly recommend this - and I understand the author Chris Rowthorn is available for personal tours throughout Kyoto as well. The book contains great maps, and the level of information is superb for getting you started.

Paperback: 220 pages

• Publisher: Lonely Planet; 4 Pap/Map edition (July 1, 2008)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 1740598458
• ISBN-13: 978-1740598453

Nara A Cultural Guide to Japan's Ancient Capital

John H. and Phyllis G. Martin

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This is a relatively densely packed book on nearby Nara... and has a similar feel to their other book on Kyoto (above). The book's a little dry for my liking... but then again, I picked it up at a book bargain bin in Adelaide. There's a reasonable amount of coverage, but you'll most likely find yourself wanting to know more detail. At least I did.

Paperback: 208 pages

• Publisher: Tuttle Publishing (January 1994)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 0804819149
• ISBN-13: 978-0804819145

Well - these were the main books that I have used for gathering information... I know... it's somewhat ironic that I've used books as my primary source of info, when there's a whole internet out there waiting to stream into my consciousness with information. At the end of the day, there's something very nice about having a book with you... especially a small one like the Lonely Planet guide which you can shove in your jacket pocket and read whilst on the subway.

I spent quite a long time preparing the trip to Kyoto... and had read, and re-read many of these books. Some of the books I purchased in Japan...as I just couldn't resist. We have generally gone for the full-on holidays where we push ourselves pretty hard. You see a lot when you do... but it takes a fair bit of preparation, and a whole heap of patience and determination. If you're going to Kyoto for 2-3 days, then I wouldn't recommend anything other than a Lonely Planet guide (or equivalent).

Hope this has been a little helpful... and if you want any further info, just give me a bell. Also - feel free to tell me about your own favourite books on Kyoto!

Lighting the Way...Kasuga Taisha Style

25th October, 2006 - Further up the hill from Tamukeyama Hachiman-gu, we walk further back in time - back to the time of Fujiwara-no-Fuhito, who figured so prominently in the making of Nara. There were two religious centres that were associated with the Fujiwara family. We've already seen the first, Kofuku-ji. The second is Kasuga Taisha.

As mentioned, Fujiwara-no-Fuhito (659 - 720AD) was centrally involved in the development of Nara, and had manoeuvred his clan in line with the Imperial family through marriage. It's good to have daughters if you're an up-and-coming noble. The same smallpox outbreak that had inspired Emperor Shōmu also however killed each of Fuhito’s sons in 737, thus forestalling the Fujiwara clan's rise to power.

From Tamukeyama Hachiman-gu, you arrive at the side entrance... Actually for over 1000 years there was a very strong link between the Shinto shrines and the Buddhist temples - a sort of co-evolution that only came to an end with the Meiji Restoration. This shrine is dedicated to Ame-no-Koyame - he is considered the ancestor of the Fujiwara. I always get the feeling that the deities of Shinto largely sprung from real people, glorified and ancestor-worshipped until they eventually took on a spiritual existence... around which legends grew. Then again... what do I know... ?;-p

The shrine is surrounded by bronze lanterns - donated by patrons. Of course - the donations weren't merely to the shrine, as there was an undeniable link between the powerful Fujiwara clan and what was essentially their own family shrine. Not that I'd cynically equate donations with power...

The Nandai-mon is the main entrance to the Shrine. This shrine is supposedly one of three most important Shinto shrines in Japan. I'm not sure why - or even who says these things. The Japanese love ordering things however - and I suppose when you've got so many shrines and temples, pecking ordering is important.

The lanterns line many of the walls and passageways. Nowadays the shrine has a feel of solid permanence... however the shrine itself was originally designed, like many in Japan, to be rebuilt every 20 or so years. That tradition has stopped however - clearly it takes a long time for the resident kami to put down roots.

Below is sort of the quintessential photo of Kasuga Taisha... why... well, if you're like 95% of the foreign tourists that come to Kasuga Taisha, then you're a tight-wad and this point is the furthest you can go without paying the admission price. The fence is carefully cropped out.

Yes - we'd finally reached our limit of temples that day and decided that we'd forego the experience and just view the shrine from a distance. Actually, this shrine is the basis of a complete Shinto shrine style known as Kasuga-zukuri, and is the second most common shrine style in Japan. Also if you are a tight-wad, then there's plenty for you to see in the vicinity of the shrine. Especially if you like stone lanterns.

Nara Kōen is well known for it's lanterns (both stone and bronze), and as you move up into the hills you find more and more. Lanterns are used beyond and within the shrine – and the Lantern festival is held here twice a year - unfortunately for us, those two times were February and August. Below is the view of the Nandai-mon from the outside.

There are around 2000 lanterns scattered across the park, and the Kasuga Taisha has the lion's share of them. You'd almost think you'd stumbled on a Lanterns-R-Us discount shop... everything must GO... crazy Crazy CRAZY! You like lanterns - we've got lanterns... out our wazoo.

 I can't imagine how long it takes to light all of the candles in the Lantern Festival (or how many matches give their lives)... it must be an incredible sight however. I'm sure in the twilight the forests of lanterns must make for an equally eerie sight.

Lanterns to the left... Lanterns to the right...

Stone, trees and moss... a perfect combination. Each of the stone lanterns, like their bronze counterparts, were donated to the park and shrine by worshippers.

As the afternoon settles in, we finish up with the lantern forest. The way down is always easier. My thoughts dwelling on the age old question. Is there such a thing as too many stone lanterns?


And then when you've had your fill... you can always return to main park and re-acquaint yourself with the deer. These animals are considered sacred in Nara - as the legend goes, the four spirits (kami) of Kasuga Taisha were brought to Nara on deer-back. Now they have free reign of the park...  And they want food... or anything that looks like it could be food. October is not a fun time for the deer however - every year the deer are de-antlered in October. Stops them getting too "keen" both with each other and the park visitors.

After our whirlwind visit through Nara - we went to the Nara National Museum to have a look through the various historical artifacts and objects from ancient Nara. At the time there was a special exhibit on... all about treasures from Emperor Shōmu's private collection. Actually, it sounded more interesting than it was. For the life of me, I couldn't get that into a short note written by someone to someone else regarding some administrative matter. Even if it was 1,000+ years old. It just lacked a personal touch to me (but perhaps that's just a cultural/language divide). Still they have some nice artwork in the museum... but unfortunately no cameras allowed. It was also a great opportunity to see some real otaku (nerd) Japanese that poured over each small item in awed wonderment. We even had one ojisan complaining derisively to us that the museum had made a mistake over one of their exhibit descriptions. Tsk tsk. Naughty museum.

As the night draws in, and the sun sets, we catch our breath, enjoy the view, and head back to Kyōto... we'd like to have stayed here more - but both T-chan and I were starting to wilt.

Nara... The Forest of Yore

25th October, 2006 - So far we have travelled through Buddha's Nara... clean, grand, and a testament to human striving to conquer the world, and our own frailties. There is however another Nara, just as ancient if not more so... beyond the vermilion torii... This world is much older and much more primal in nature. It is a world of the Shinto spirit (or kami) worship. As you move further into Nara Kōen, you find yourself moving deeper and deeper into the old Japan... although this is hardly the wilds of Japan. For a good feel of Shinto beliefs and shrines, please pop into More Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan which is one of the best blogs on traditional Japan on the net.

And of course - Japan is famous for it's trees. This one has most probably been through a bit...

Walking up the mountain, you come first to Tamukeyama-Hachiman-gu .The Shinto of ancient Japan was more about worshipping sacred locations, or even "things"... however following the introduction of Buddhism into Japan in the sixth century (what with it's ceremonies and temples), there was a distinct transition in the way Shinto was observed. The Japanese are very good at adopting new styles, and the Shinto belief system adopted the dedicated shrine - indeed this gateway owes a lot to early Chinese tradition.

Looking back, we are always able to reflect on how far we've gone. The first signs of Autumn, promising of all the great views we would miss out on... for a later trip.

In a very amicable way, the god Hachiman had taken on (willingly or not) the role of protecting the Buddhist temple of Tōdai-ji. For many centuries, the line between Buddhism and native-born Shinto blurred. Following the Meiji Restoration and the ascendancy of the State-based new-Shinto religion, such cozy relationships between the two fell fell away as easily as discarded clothes. In previous centuries, it was often the Buddhist temples that supported the Shinto shrines.

I love the juxtaposition of the photo below, what with the earthen  and age-worn walls, the roof tiles, the white Japanese shide decorations. This more naturalistic look speaks much more clearly to me of Shinto's origin than the familiar vermilion red paint that we can see through the gateway.

It's not so easy  however, throwing off the influence of over a millenia of Buddhist influence! Turning left (towards the north), we re-enter the Buddhist world as we approach Sangatsu-do, named after the Buddhist scripture (or sutra) reading that occurs in March (san - gatsu... 3 - month) - then onto Nigatsu-do... let me guess...named after sutra readings in february (ni - gatsu... 2 - month)?

Towards the back of the temple we see the direct evidence of the cross pollination of religions. This area is very Shinto in feel. The stone basin is for performing misogi harai - or temizu - the washing of hands (and in previous times, the mouth). This purification is Japanese - and specifically Shinto - in origin.

The Nigatsu-do is particularly impressive... it's not quite up to Kiyomizudera standards (he says telegraphing a future post), but it's a nice vantage point with which to take in the surrounds. To reiterate the point from before - these two religions are joined, for the most part, at the hips. See the mini-mini torii in the foreground - this tells us that "here lieth sacred Shinto ground"... what we lack in size, we make up for in occasional shade from this tree. It's all about street frontage.

The panorama from Nigatsu-do is sweeping to say the least.

The daibutsuden stands off in the distance, the city of Nara beyond. Nigatsu-do is very much a sub-temple of Tōdai-ji.

As you move past the Takuyama Hachiman-gu again, you will eventually reach a street of tourist and food shops, at the top of the park. After a long day of walking around, the food was welcome (especially for T-chan), but don't expect the Ritz. Pretty basic tourist standard.

Departing Nigatsu-do, we pass back into the forest - and finally there's a sense of moving back in time... 

Except for... a 7-11 from olden times... deep in the forest we came across this very interesting convenience store.... well, I'm not sure you can expect them to franchise anytime soon, but it made for a very different experience. And no... it's not quite Lawson... just the bare basics of food / drink etc.

Next stop... the time before yore. That's right.... it's pre-yore. 

Todai-ji... Bigger than AdelaideBen Hur

25th October, 2006 - Leaving Kōfuku-ji we approach Tōdai-ji along a well-trodden path...Construction for “Great Eastern Temple” started around 734AD, under the direction of Emperor Shōmu. He had the grand vision of creating both the largest bronze Buddha and the largest wooden building the world had seen. He would succeed at both goals, and it remains true today. Suffering from illness that threatened to take his life, he had the great shrine dedicated in 752, prior to it’s completion. The gold finishing was only applied after his death.

Tōdai-ji is approached through the Nandai-mon (or Great South Gate). The present gateway, dating from 1199 AD, is but two thirds in size of the original which was destroyed by a typhoon in 962. The two Nio were constructed by borthers Unkei and Kaikei, two of the leading sculptors of the time...no piccies though *sigh*. They are impressive.



Continuing down the boulevard, you approach the Chu-mon, or central gateway. This is only opened on special occassions, so you normally need to go through the smaller (uninspiring) gateway on the left.

As with the Nandai-mon, the gateway is protected by the guardian kings.... We'll be introduced to these more shortly...

The Great Buddha Hall (daibutsuden) is the largest wooden building in the world standing at some 187 by 165 feet, and up to 159 feet high. The present building was built in 1709 (the result of the original burning down a decade earlier). This building is somewhat smaller than the original (about 2/3rds once again), and the two seven-storied pagoda that used to stand either side are no more. Emperor Shōmu reportedly set about developing Tōdai-ji following a number of calamities hit Japan (including small-pox epidemics).... it was somewhat ironic then that his daughter, Empress Shōtoku almost brought the Imperial rule under direct Buddhist control, and in the end she also died of small-pox.

The decorations are the remnants of the celebrations that occured on the 21st October (at the same time as Jidai Matsuri back in Kyōto). They add a slightly incongruous air to the temple, as if it were some giant birthday cake.

Approaching the building there's a real sense of the size...this truly is the house of the Great Buddha. Daibutsu-den. 

The bronze Buddha statue is some 49 feet high, the upturned hand alone is over 6 feet high was originally cast in 746 AD – and has been re-cast twice since. It contains some 437 tonnes of bronze and 130 kg of gold. During it's manufacture, the majority of the bronze output of Japan was funneled into its manufacture - almost bankrupting the country. Such was the devotion of Emperor Shōmu, and the power of the Imperial throne. It was completed in 751, and the eye painting ceremony, conducted by an Indian priest, was done in 752.

The Buddhist faith is somewhat complex, and like many of the worlds religions it is somewhat multi-faceted. When we think of Buddhism in the West, our thoughts perhaps naturally turn to the historical "Buddha", or as is known in Siddhatta Gautama - or more commonly in Japan, Sakyamuni. However the Buddha represented in Tōdai-ji is Vaircona Buddha (or birushana-butsu), the Celestial Buddha, whose light shines through all Buddhas. The position of the hands has religious significance: the right denoting peace-of-mind, the left the granting of wishes. This is what you call a Great Buddha (daibutsu)!

To the left of the daibutsu is Kokuzo-bosatsu... where bosatsu (or bodhisattva) are beings - at least in the Mahāyāna school of Buddhism in Japan - that have essentially attained enlightenment but have elected to remain in the world to help others.

To the right of Great Buddha is the Boddhisattva Nyorin Kannon (who grants wishes using the centamani jewel his hand).

These statues were originally protected by the Shitennō - the four (shi) kings (tennō), of which only two remain.
Kōmoku-ten (Guardian of the West) holds paper and writing brush to record the sins against the Buddhist truth;
Tamon-ten (Guardian of the North) holds a pagoda in his hand, to show his symbolic protection of Buddhism;
Jikoku-ten (Guardian of the East) draws his sword in defence of Buddhism; and
Zōjō-ten (Guardian of the South) holding a staff as both symbol of office and weapon.

Kōmoku-ten...His name means wide eyed or expansive vision.

Tamon-ten...One who is all knowing, and all hearing. The pagoda represents the treasure house of Buddhism, it's rewards given only to the righteous.

A rather strange image stands - or should I say, sits - outside the Daibutsuden, just to the right of the entrance. A giant chair, upon which a rather disturbing wooden statue sits cross-legged, cloaked in red bib and cap. This is Binzuru-Sonja, a disciple of the historical Buddha Sakyamuni. He is most famous for having the ability, so the legend goes, to cure all ills if you rub him, then the body part which is sick. There is another legend that says that due to a fall from grace, he is forever forced to wait outside the sacred temple.

Looking back across to the Chu-mon, we see a great octagonal lantern dating from 752. The eight sides are decorated with Korean dogs, and artisans, and the lantern is adorned with the centamani, a jewel favoured with the granting of wishes.

The temple was built under the guidance of the Kegon sect monk, Rōben, although the early years of Tōdai-ji is often associated with a Chinese monk, by the name of Ganjin, who had been invited from the mainland to provide spiritual guidance. After five unsuccessful attempts to sail to Japan over 12 years, he finally made it on the sixth attempt, arriving in 753, by which time he was completely blind.

The clouds part momentarily as we leave Tōdai-ji... the gold ornaments atop the great building shining strongly. In many ways, I feel the daibutsu of Kamakura is more beautiful, and perhaps more inspirational for all that it sits out in the elements. However, the scale of the daibutsuden is truly awe-inspiring. To think that this was constructed originally over 1250 years ago... and then it was even grander than it is today.